Oaxaca Coffee…hmmm good!
Last week in the little seaside village of San Agustinillo, Oaxaca I walked each morning from our bungalow at Punto Placer a block or so to the renowned fish eatery Paraiso del Pescador. At 6 am the old girls there are not slinging fresh whole fish in ajo sauce as they do from 2p onward–best in town. Rather the attraction for coffee lovers like me this time of day is some fresh Oaxacan coffee for my good wife and I. There are two aspects of what little Maria brews up each am –no three that are timely and critical for caffeine craving gringos like me:
- No one else in town moves around with coffee this early
- The coffee is local and excellent (see below)
- Self serve and 15 pesos a cup makes it easy
So I would daily bring my own cup, slather it full of black stuff, and sit and jaw with whoever was seated at one of the big open air tables a few feet from the Pacific surf.
One morning as I shuffled my bare feet out of the place a German voice muttered , “I grew that coffee.” I dismissed this as one more eccentric bragger that seems to be common in the area. But then I sat down and asked the scruffy guy just where he grew it.
“Up there in Pluma Hidalgo” he said gesturing away from the waves to the foggy hills above us- and that got my attention.
Just the day before I had gone up to Pluma Hidalgo and seen first hand the pristine little town and the coffee fincas surrounding it and the vast breathtaking views at every corner. Sure enough this guy Peter is a coffee guy who has a farm up there.
I was so impressed by the place and encouraged by this contact that I plan to include Pluma Hidalgo as an option on our future trips to Oaxaca. Now there are so many options there in Oaxaca, but the uniqueness of this spot has to make it and overnight memory for our travelers.
By the way…take note that the strength of Paraiso del Pescador is not the rooms, its the food…and of course the early morning coffee.